Holy Cow inspired money box

When I was in Pushkar, Rajasthan last year I spotted these donation boxes outside the temples, all handpainted with cows. I saw a lot of cows too. In fact one in particular had its eye on me the entire time I sat by the water’s edge.

It was absolutely blistering heat that day and the floors burnt my feet with every step.

There are a lot of tourist market stalls around when you first enter Pushkar, selling clothes, jewellery and usual touristy stuff but one thing they don’t sell which they should is a miniature version of their donation boxes. But hey I just found this instead…

Available from online store Scaramanga (£25) it’s the coolest home for spare pennies I’ve seen in a long long time.

And now for some real holy cows…

Cows of Pushkar, Rajasthan, India

Puskar images: http://www.craftandtravel.com

Win a trip to China in the ‘My Moment With China’ campaign

Portrait by: Horaczko Photography

When I was at school I won four return train tickets to anywhere in the UK so my three sisters and I went to the furthest place we could think of – Edinburgh in Scotland. It was our first trip away together and we never would have gone if I hadn’t entered the competition. More recently a friend of mine won a pair of flights to Malayasia… and gave me her second ticket! So you see, competitions can be won, you’ll never know unless you enter.

A competition that’s caught my eye at the minute is the My Moment With China one which launched this week. There’s five places up for grabs – that’s five lucky winners heading off to Sichuan in China this September, that’s not even long to wait! So if you haven’t managed to book yourself a summer holiday (like me) or also can’t afford a holiday at the minute (also like me!) then quite frankly there’s nothing to lose.

To enter all you need to do is submit a video or photo (up to six) on social media using the hashtag #IAmInChina – yep. It’s as easy as that! More details on the IAmInChina website here. Entry is open worldwide. Go go go! (And let me know if you win!)

Here’s some of the awesome things you can discover in Sichuan…

Giant pandas: 80% of the world’s giant pandas are bread in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan

Spicy food: If you’ve ever tried a Sichuan dish as your local Chinese it was probably tasty but nothing beats the real thing

Bamboo: One of the most versatile materials in the world, in this region you can visit bamboo forests

Thank you portrait, event & tourism photographer Horaczko Photography for the photo of me shot in Camden, North London.

 

Street art is cool but murals are even better – welcome to Hyderabad’s animal walls

Capturing street art always makes for good blogging and social media content. But what about the people who created it? We’re all quick to stand in front of gorgeous colourful walls (me especially) and pose for the camera, but what about the people who painted it – when did they create it, what was the inspiration behind the design and who are they? Trained artists or amateurs?

Street art is the most accessible form of art there is and that’s why I adore it so much and why you’ll see it make multiple appearances throughout the content here. I’ve never liked the way ‘art’ is behind closed doors inside galleries seen by an elite few. On the streets it’s visible to all and it becomes a natural part of the landscape. I love murals too. Where someone commissions artwork to be created for a space, school, building, venue, it brings architecture and places to life…even main roads.

Some of of the street art murals you’ll see if you visit Hyderabad…

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Earlier this year when I was visiting Hyderabad I was taken to all the key sites but while the beauty of old palaces and views from tall important buildings is all very pleasing, what I remember the most is the beautiful mile long stretch of street art murals that strech down along the main road, beginning from Necklace Road train station, on Raj Bhavan lane just down from THE Park Hotel where I was staying. I spotted it from the car as we drove up to approach the hotel and as soon as I’d changed and eaten after checking in, I headed straight outside into the blistering heat to go and examine the masterpiece which consists of animals in a jungle. There’s vast areas of greenery and amongst it, creatures gathering together as part of the composition.

The wall is split half way through with a crossing but it’s possible to walk the entire breadth of it by foot, allowing you to get up close with each painting. I photographed as much of it as I could to be able to share the work, which I found out was painted by amateur artists, funded by a government initiative to teach people new skills in November 2016. It was part of wider street art project which also included professional artists taking over buildings and walls with their own artistic ideas. There’s not a huge about of accurate info about it online what I heard was anecdotal but while international artists were brought in for some of the work, the animal mural wall was completed by locals and funded by the Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation – I love that the project is backed by government, it gives street art a huge boost.

It may not be enough of a reason to visit Hyderabad but if you are in the city it’s a delight to see the work and to experience the beauty of it juxtaposed against a busy road with constant bleeps from car horns.

Here’s some of the other walls in the area which are equally as impressive…

And finally one of me on the Necklace Road train tracks…

Indian Clay Bangle Making

 

A mesmerising watch.

I feel naked without bangles. They are the one accessory I have to wear and on the rare occasions I’ve accidently left my house without wearing any, I’ve gone to the nearest shop and bought some: that’s how bad my addiction is.

This demonstration of clay bangles was filmed in Jaipur. Every single bangle in the set is different but made in the same way by melting and moulding clay and tree gum. The colours are so vivid but the result is very delicate. I bought this set but shortly after, dropped a few on the floor and they broke into small pieces, so if you are going to buy clay bangles wear them and handle them with caution.

The great thing about buying direct from a demonstration is that you’re giving money directly to the maker and with that in mind, because I saw him at work these are currently the most precious bangles I own. I’m so shamed I broke some of them so early on but the ones I still have are very special.

Given a choice I encourage you to shop similarly – why give money to a store when it’s the maker who’s done the work? I know it’s not always possible but it beats buying something quickly from a shop which may not even have been made in the country you’re purchasing it from, even though it’s labelled a ‘handicraft.’

Don’t worry about price either because in actual fact it’s cheaper to buy direct. These clay bangles were a complete bargain!

Have you bought anything from your travels that you watched being made? Share your story in the comments, we’d love to know. 

Fairtrade & Fabulous: Sri Lankan Woven Accessories

The Founders of HAS Partnership tell us more about their colourful Sri Lankan accessories…  

Tell us more about HAS Partnership, we’re guessing the title comes from your initials?
Yes it does! The company was set up and is entirely run by us, Heshika, Ayomi and Sabina, and a huge part of what gave us the confidence to set up a company was the that we are three friends working together as a team; it also helps that among the three of us we have experience related to the skills required to set up and run a company. We deliberately chose a name that reflects the fact that it’s three components that come together and make a whole.

How did it come about that the three of you decided to set it up?
We used to frequently joke about how good a team we would be if we worked together but occasionally this would become a serious discussion when we would say ‘actually, we really should do something together because it would be a great experience to go to work with your best friends – it also gives us an excuse to spend more time together’.

Our love of eating meant that we would constantly be talking about owning our own cafe or running a catering business that would bring our favourite Sri Lankan savoury pastries to the UK. That is until we were once discussing our respective holidays in Sri Lanka and realised we had all returned with our favourite handloom items for ourselves, and also gifts for friends. It felt like a no-brainer after that, as we were clearly going back to Sri Lanka for our accessories because handloom of this quality, and in bright colours, isn’t widely available in the UK. This chimed with discussions we’d had about admiring and being inspired by the people who work to sustain the industry and support Sri Lankan workers with fair wages, so we were really excited to combine what we’re passionate about into one idea.

What types of items do you sell?

We sell home and fashion accessories. This includes necklaces, scarves, aprons, purses, tote bags, cushion covers, napkins, coasters and table mats. We’d like to widen our range to include other complementary items but thought we would start small and then expand in time. All products are woven on handlooms in Sri Lanka, which is a cottage industry. The work is made by artisans and then distributed by our suppliers.

How did you source your initial stock?
We currently have a single supplier; a company whose ethical policies in all areas, from having a minimum impact on the environment to fair pay to supporting families and women’s careers and much more, are exactly the policies we wanted to adopt for any business we ran. They have done a stellar job in working to address the decline in the handloom industry, due to competition from cheaper, mass- and machine-produced products. In fact, their company was set up to support artisans and prevent the disappearance of a heritage industry. We decided to approach them and ask whether we can set up a company which will widen the market for the products made by the artisans who work for them by popularising and selling them in the UK.

Are there particular parts of Sri Lanka you mainly get the pieces made in?
Our supplier recognises that a ‘head factory’ model undermines the fact that handloom is a cottage industry, so encourages their artisans to work locally. As a result artisans aren’t based in just one area of the country, which is great as it allows families to stay together and communities to thrive organically.

What kinds of arts and crafts is Sri Lanka usually associated with?

Sri Lanka is known for its carved wood, items made from coconut by-products (ranging from toys to kitchen utensils), batik clothing and accessories, hand-made lace and much more. Many of these products are the results of specialist skills and expertise that have been handed down over many generations and are rooted in our history. Handloom is also one of these heritage industries and shares another characteristic with many of these industries in that many are historically cottage industries.

How do you ensure the fair trade aspects of your business?
Our supplier is Fair Trade Certified, which was one of the key reasons we chose to work with them.

What are people’s reaction when they discover they are buying Sri Lankan crafts?
They’re really excited! And they’re also always amazed by, and comment on, the colours. We’ve noticed a pattern that if they’ve visited Sri Lanka they say the colours remind them of the country’s natural environment, and if they haven’t been to Sri Lanka they ask whether everything in Sri Lanka is of such vibrant hues and express a desire to visit for themselves.

It’s not that easy to find Sri Lankan crafts for sale in the UK, how do you hope to change that?

We would like to be featured in small stores in London that share our values to start with and then, hopefully, spread demand more widely across the UK. We feel our products have a strong asset in being so distinct in look and style, so are instantly recognisable and very memorable. Hopefully that will help to spread the word among those who want to buy beautiful, unique and ethically-produced home and fashion accessories.

Where would you like to take the business in coming years?
In the short term, we would like to sell more widely in stores and, of course, regularly in one of London’s wonderful markets. In the long term, we would love to have our own store, in which we can sell our current range of products but also much more besides, including textiles for those who want to make their own clothes, or similar, using handwoven material. Who knows, we may one day come back to our original plan by also including a cafe as part of the shop…

A selection of products from the HAS Partnership range is currently available online and instore at Danaqa, Portobello Road and at the East London Design Store, on Church Street in Stoke Newington, in the run up to Christmas. 

www.has-design.com

Twitter: @HASdesignUK
Facebook: HASdesignUK
Instagram: HASdesignUK

 

Rickshaw Art of Dhaka, Bangladesh

Rickshaw artist at work

Paints for decorating rickshaws

Rickshaw details

Rickshaw workshop sewing machine

Making a rickshaw seat from coconut husks

Rickshaw art on vinyl

The beauty of cart art 

Rickshaws are what makes Dhaka, Dhaka. Bringing colour, creativity and character to the city; and more importantly a means of living to over a million people, there are an estimated 1/2 million rickshaws in Dhaka today.

Rickshaw art is considered ‘street art’ literally as it’s only viewable when you’re actually on the streets. In fact the best way to see it is to board a rickshaw yourself and be taken around the roads, alleyways and labyrinths of new and old Dhaka where a living, moving, changing, live art gallery surrounds you. Also referred to as The People’s Art, rickshaw art makes art accessible to everyone, even the poorest in society, most of whom are rickshaw-wallahs themselves. Instead of it being an art form that is housed inside public galleries, rickshaws roam freely, allowing anyone and everyone to appreciate their beauty.

 A rickshaw is essentially a three -wheeled bicycle with a carriage attached which seats people and luggage. They are cycled through the streets by a rickshaw-wallah transporting members of the public to where ever they wish to go. While the rickshaw itself is rented by the rider/driver/puller known as a rickshaw-wallah; there are many others involved in the rickshaw industry: the owners who commission them to be made, builders, constructors, artists, painters and their apprentices.

Rickshaw-wallas are male and typically under 30, most have come from rural areas to Dhaka in search of work. The physical demands of the job are extreme and the industry isn’t regulated in terms of limits and what is an acceptable distance to expect a rickshaw-wallah to ride, it’s up to their own endurance. Rickshaw journeys are the cheapest form of transport and all fares are negotiable.

Parts of a rickshaw

A rickshaw consists of several key sections. They are mainly made from recycled materials:

Handle bars: Often decorated with tassels, bells, plastic flowers, tinsel and sparkling fabrics
Frame: Decorated with painted details and patterns

Seat: These are stuffed with coconut husks and covered with painted vinyl fabrics, metal collaging and plastic appliqué from the seat pad down to the floor where passengers place their feet

Hood: Luggage like suitcases can be stored here, or additional passengers; they can be pushed up to create a shade for passengers, pushed down, or detached and are decorated with paint or appliqué; the backs are particularly elaborate

Back plate: This is the main section where the rickshaw painting is seen

The art on the cart

The themes apparent in rickshaw art vary, but they are often inspired by popular culture so it’s not uncommon to see images that depict film posters or film stars as well as iconic images of rural life, prominent people, architecture, animals, moments in history, flowers and fauna.

The owner has some influence over what designs feature on their rickshaw but usually they agree a price with the artist who will be painting it, who then has the freedom to paint it as they wish. The decoration of the rickshaw accounts for around a quarter of the total cost of buying one. Artists normally sign or mark the work so it’s possibly to identify who has painted it. There aren’t too many rules surrounding rickshaw art copyright and artists are commonly inspired by each other.

 How to see rickshaws being made

Rickshaw workshops can be found throughout Dhaka. There isn’t a specific hub; most are tucked away up back streets but it’s possible to visit one by asking around until someone (usually a rickshaw-wallah) knows of one and agrees to take you. Not every rickshaw rider knows where to find them so keep asking or enlist their help to ask around until someone can guide the way. The Lonely Planet guidebook I had on me referred to ‘Bicycle Street’ as a place to see these workshops…it may have been at some point but there wasn’t a single rickshaw workshop there when I visited and no one in the street including rickshaw-wallas knew of any there either.

Unfortunately I don’t know the exact location of the workshop I was taken to by my rickshaw-wallah but it wasn’t too far from Bicycle Street.

At the workshops its possible to buy rickshaw art direct from the artisans, at a much cheaper and fairer price than any rickshaw art you’ll find sold in shops; the money goes direct to them for a start. I purchased two metal back plates and a full size vinyl painting for £15. They have the signature PC Das on them; who I later discovered is the nephew of one of the cities most prominent painters; RK Das.

Rickshaws can be found all over Bangladesh and in other countries, but it’s Dhaka that is the hub of rickshaw art; the standard and craftmanship of which is so high that seeing them in person, is enough reason to make a trip here.

Momtaz Begum-Hossain
Images: CraftandTravel.com

Nepal: Felt Crafts

When visiting Nepal, one craft you can’t fail to fall in love with is their colourful, creative and full-of-character felt crafts. There is no shortage of wool in there parts, knitters and knitted goods are everywhere but felt is a speciality. In Thamel, Kathmandu and around the shopping streets of Pokhara (both of which are busy tourist hubs) there are felt boutiques filled with wonderful woolly creations.
Products to look out for include bags, soft toys, snuggly slippers and felt ball items like coasters, rugs and necklaces. In terms of prices, in the aforementioned tourist shops they are quiet steep but store owners expect some haggling so don’t give in too easily. Having said that don’t underprice them if you know it has a fairtrade guarantee. There are some fixed priced shops to help gauze an idea of how much you should pay.

Nepal is famous for it’s yaks, you’ll find them on bank notes and inevitably there are numerous woolly yak products like yak wool scarves for sale but felt crafts are 100% sheep! Unlike felt sheets you can typically buy in craft shops, Nepali felt has a thick, substantial feel and is strong and sturdy. Felt itself is produced by matting, condensing and pressing wool and the colour choices are endless, something Nepali crafters use to its advantage.

When I visited Nepal in January 2014 I was particularly interested in finding out more about the Nepal felt industry; seeing it being made and meet artisans but it wasn’t possible on that trip…another excuse to return me thinks!

If anyone else out there knows some more about the felt craft industry please do get in contact.

Images: CraftandTravel

Durga Puja preparations: visiting Kumartuli, the Idol-Making district in Kolkata, India

One of the reasons I wanted to go to Kolkata was to visit Kurmartuli, a clay workers district, where you can observe Hindu sculptures being made by hand. The Idol Makers of Kumartuli are the talented artisans who make the incredible deities and idols for the famous Durga Puga held annually around the world. Part of the Hindu festival of Navaratri, which is taking place now (October 2016), these sculptures are an important part of the festivities and in Kumartuli they work year long in preparations, making thousands of clay works.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Whether it was acceptable for a woman to go alone, whether there was a need to make an appointment, or whether one can simply turn up; but in the end I did just that.

It can take hours to get across Kolkata because of the traffic so instead of a bus or taxi, I boarded a boat which took me straight to Kumartuli.

After getting off the boat I had no idea how on earth I would find the exact area but as I headed into the main part of the neighbourhood, I began to spy a store selling clay gods, and saw statues of clay horses left out on the roadsides to dry.

I turned a corner into an alley way and there it is before my eyes. I felt like I had properly uncovered the real City Of Joy, although perhaps it should be renamed the City of Grey?

I made my way through the labyrinth of workshops and artisans moulding, sculpting, slipping, painting and sketching away. It was so quiet as the workers, all men, worked diligently away.

I spied heads, bodies, animals, masks, giant beings, mythical creatures and humans, all created from clay and straw. Every so often I turned a corner to see photographers snapping up the world of the idol maker; it’s certainly an image-maker’s paradise.

The skills of these artisans is exceptional. There is so much detail and consistency in their designs and it’s so fascinating to see the various parts of sculptures come together in different stages. If you have any interest at all in clay, pottery or sculpture, Kumartuli is worthy of making a pilgrimage to.

Some of the workers were based inside workshops while other seem to be just sprawled out onto streets.

Stages I saw included building the base model, covering it in slip, then straw ,then more slip before seeing them painted and adorned with embellishments.

It’s estimated that for the Durga Puja festival, deities and sculptures are created here in Kumartuli for 100 countries. The artisans also take private orders, such as the man I met who was working on a commission.

Again, I was blown away by the creativity and craftsmanship.

To get the most out of a visit to Kurmatuli it’s worth taking a guide who can explain a bit  more about the stages and the history of the area, but wondering alone as I did, gives you the freedom to simply enjoy the atmosphere, and there’s something very satisfying in wondering amidst a labyrinth of clay; you’re not sure what you’ll witness next.

Visiting Kumartuli was a highlight of my travels in the West Bengal region, whether you have a spare hour, or an entire day, it’s worth every minute of your time being here. Here’s a few more snaps from my explorations…

Momtaz Begum-Hossain
Images: CraftandTravel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indigo – The Art Of Natural Dyeing in Thailand

I first tried tie-dye crafts when I was at school. I customised my trousers by applying elastic bands onto a pair of white jeans and then put them in a washing machine with purple dye, which transformed them into the perfect ‘festival chic’ fashion item.

At that time I had always associated ‘tie-dye’ with alternative hippy culture and when I went to the markets of Panjam in Goa, India, this was confirmed as I saw endless rainbow tie dye bedspreads, the quintessential ‘tie-dyed’ textile.

But these were all made with unnatural dyes: bold, bright hues that were made from synthetic colours. It was later that I learnt about the existence of natural dyes and how they are used so commonly around the world – many of which originate from plants.

Indigo-dyeing

View of Kram Sakon Centre

Used for thousands of years, indigo dye is a natural blue colour that is extracted from indigo plants and has been used in India and South East Asian countries for textiles for centuries. Although I’ve seen classes in the UK advertised about trying out indigo dyeing, I’ve never had the chance before, so on a trip to Sakhon Nakon, in NE Thailand, I stopped by Kram Sakon, a centre that specialises in Thai indigo dyeing where it’s possible to have a go at this traditional technique.

So many options!

To start with we were shown the possibilities: the types of patterns that can be achieved, and the implements required to create them, which were wooden blocs, lollipop stick and elastic bands.

I was drawn to this particular shape and as I was decorating a scarf, decided to make it into a feature shape.

Creating my pattern

To create the main circular design the scarf was folded concertina style into a long triangle. The shapes where then placed at three intervals.

Dyeing the scarf

My group dyeing their scarves

Much more labour intensive than I expected, it wasn’t just a matter of leaving it in a bucket and allowing the dye to absorb. Much agitation was needed and it was tiring work.

Initially it was put in the bucket of dye and them moved around for five minutes. It was then hung up to dry for five minutes and then dyed again and repeated several times. There’s also an intensive rinsing process.

The dye itself runs out. There gets to a point where you can’t dye anything else as it’s all been absorbed so you need to get a new bucket but that wouldn’t be necessary for a scarf, that’s more if you’re dyeing several garments.

Indigo dye

To get an understanding of how the actual dye is created, check out this blog post which goes through in detail, how the plants are harvested, leaves picked and soaked and pigment extraction. In fact the blog SlowStitchCraft has some good explanations about natural dyeing in general and the authors are based in North East Thailand.

The finished results

You never really know if your methods will work until you finally unravel your work and see the results. I was actually amazed when I saw the final result.

OOH that’s mine!

The scarf needed to dry naturally in the air and is then ready to start using. There’s no need to fix it with an iron like synthetic shop bought dyes, another bonus!

Ooh what a lovely scarf!

 Want to have a go yourself?

There’s quite a few tutorials online about how to try indigo dyeing in your own home, but I particularly like this one as it uses actual indigo dye and is straight forward. It’s also worth looking out for Shibori dyeing classes, this is a Japanese form of indigo dyeing and will give you similar results.

I recently met Susie, based in Cambridge, UK who makes and sells indigo dyed products in her Easy shop EcoMeCreative and runs workshops in London in indigo and other natural dyes. Visit her website for dates and contact details. She also sells indigo dyed products in her Etsy store. 

Kram Sakon has a factory outlet selling indigo items and also a small guesthouse. It’s also possible to arrange a complete immersive experience like this one. 

Kram Sakon Address: 212 หมู่ 2, Huai Yang, Mueang Sakon Nakhon District, Sakon Nakhon, Thailand Phone: +66 91 562 1671

Momtaz Begum-Hossain
Images: CraftandTravel.com

 

 

 

Learning about silk weaving in North East Thailand

Skeins of naturally dyed silk

Silk is considered by many as the finest fabric in the world: but how many people know how it’s really made? I’ve heard of silk worms and I’ve heard that silk comes from silk worms, but how exactly? I’ve also heard of people that boycott silk because they don’t think it’s ethical, and met others who revere the textile.

One of the unexpected highlights of my recent visit to North East Thailand was a visit to the Queen Sirikit Sericulture Centre, Sakon Nakhon, to see for myself, how silk is made.

Cocoons under development

Sericulture is the term given to the farming of silk worms for the purpose of making silk. Silk weaving has been part of Thai culture for centuries, especially in the Northeastern region. Practiced mainly by women, sericulture comprises cultivating mulberries, rearing silkworms, producing raw silk, dyeing silk thread and weaving it into silk – all aspects I was able to see at the centre.

Silk cocoons being boiled before the silk can be extracted

We were shown around by the owner of the farm who proclaimed very early on that in order to get silk, there has to be death: silkworms have to die, otherwise you simply don’t get the silk from them. I found this an extremely difficult concept to grasp and initially while others in the group observed the various steps, took photos and tried the weaving techniques out, I simply didn’t want to be part of it. I just couldn’t grasp the concept of silk worms being blanched in hot water (killed) just to get the silk taken from them. But as the experience progressed I became more open to the idea and ended up eating a dead silk worm…but more on that later.

Our visit started with looking at the centre’s mulberry bush orchard.

In order to breed silk worms you need a constant supply of mulberry trees. The process begins with a silk moth who lays eggs which then hatch into silkworms who eat the mulberry leaves.

At the centre I saw tiny newborn worms that looked like moving dots and then observed the older more developed, fully fledged worms – I even picked one up and held it.

Up close and personal with a silk work

The worms eventually ‘weave a cocoon’ around themselves, which is made of silk threads. This can take about two to three days. The cocoons feel solid and when I first saw a tray of them, they reminded me of a cheese flavour snack we get in the UK called Wotsits.

Empty cocoons that look like Wotsits!

Left as they are, the cocoons will hatch and become silk moths, starting the process off again. But in order to make silk, the cocoons are boiled, which kills the worms (currently in pupae state) – these are extracted and eaten, a delicacy and good source of protein, while the silk filaments that make up the cocoon are extracted – this is the raw silk which then needs to be spun into thread, in the same way wool is.

One of the reasons silk is considered so precious is because very little silk is created by a single cocoon – an estimated 2,500 cocoons would be needed to make a small batch (a pound) of silk, which would barely stretch to a garment.

In the grounds of the centre we met two women who were doing the part of the process whereby the cocoons are boiled off, the pupae extracted and the filaments collected. This was the stage I found difficult to watch, I just couldn’t get my head around the worms having to die in order for humans to get silk. But as I got a better understanding, it dawned on me that it’s not as bad as it sounds. The other thing that truly fascinated me was just how natural the origins of silk are – the very fact that silk worms have the capacity to create silk is a miracle.

The reason I decided that silk production was not as bad as I first thought and eventually gave it a go, was by understanding more about ‘pupae’. During this stage the ‘insect’ is going through an ‘inactive’ stage – it’s neither larva or an adult, it’s merely in a state of inactivity, so it could be argued that it’s neither dead or alive. It’s not like a happy worm is going about its day and then boiled alive and feels the pain: it’s completely unaware and technically not a living, breathing being.

Craft and Travel’s Editor-in-Chief, Momtaz finally giving silk weaving a go

Once I was comfortable with that I was able to give the silk extraction a go. It was a delicate operation and repetitive and I admired the women for doing this for so many hours.

In order for the process to continue there needs to be a steady supply of moths too and for this reason some of the cocoons are simply left aside and allowed to develop. While I was there I managed to watch two moths hatch – it was a slow process but they eventually crawled out and detached themselves.

One of the positive aspects of the process is that no ‘worm’ is wasted. They aren’t killed and thrown away, instead the are eaten – in fact they can be eaten as soon as they are boiled and come away from the cocoon, – they look a bit like mussels. I was skeptical about trying one and I said no for a long time and then at the end I decided this was the only chance in my life to eat one, so I did and it tasted like a very good quality chickpea!

Extracted silk filaments

Elsewhere in the centre we watched the filaments being spun into thread and these being dyed into various stages using natural dyes.

There’s also a shop at the centre which sells silk fabrics and garments and it’s even possible to buy the threads. Contact the centre to arrange demo sessions if you’re interested in the same experience I had.

Momtaz Begum-Hossain