Everything you ever wanted to know about t-shirts… ‘T-shirt: Cult Culture Subversion’ at the Fashion and Textile Museum

I’m so clueless about t-shirts that it wasn’t until I went on a tour of the new T-Shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion exhibition that opened this week at The Fashion & Textile Museum in London that I realised they are ‘T shaped.’ I mean how can I be a fashion fan and not know that? Seriously that bit of knowledge completely passed me by, but maybe it’s because in truth I have absolutely no interest in t–shirts.

I don’t own any other than a couple from my youth (three band t-shirts which I didn’t actually wear, I bought them as memorabilia). You won’t even find me wearing them at the gym, I opt for vests, and when I’ve ever been in a situation where I’ve been told to wear one as a uniform, I tend to revolt. That said I did once teach a how to customise a t-shirt workshop but then again, the object of the session was to transform them as much as possible from their original form. So when I heard about this exhibition I wanted to go because I realised this was my opportunity to get a better understanding of what this most common of, casual garment is all about. And while I have in no way converted, I have a new found respect for the humble tee…

Andy Warhol t-shirts

Gilbert & George art-shirt

One of the sections in the main exhibition room

The exhibition ends on a ‘plain white t-shirt’ (I don’t even own one of them) but before you get there, there’s another 100 tees to look through spanning 50 years, sourced from the archives of artists, fans and collectors. It’s not a definitive history (t-shirt shaped garments are thought to be one of the earliest ‘fashioned’ items of clothing worn in as early as the 5^th century – now there’s a fashion fact for you.) But what you will find is 11 distinct sections considered ‘milestones’ in t-shirt evolution.

‘The earliest t-shirt shaped garments can be traced back to the 5th century’

These include techniques such as screen-printing which opened up the ability to make them on bigger scales, band t-shirts which although are now considered a fan item actually originated as the uniform of the roadies and crew and political tees – and there’s me thinking they all came under the heading ‘slogan tees’, there’s so much more to them than that. The message you wear can broadcast a social, political or even musical message and if you truly want to broadcast with todays tech you can, there’s an LED t-shirt on display which can even display live Tweets.

One of the things that is fascinating that I didn’t appreciate before, is that t-shirts are universal because of their price point, you can pick one up for a few pounds, from an ordinary store or you can spend £700 on a designer one (why I’m not sure but it happens!)

Another aspect I found of interest is the ‘power of the t-shirt’ and this dynamic explains one of the reasons I’m not a fan. I like to look ‘unique’ different, knowing it’s highly unlikely I will cross paths with someone wearing the same as me, but because t-shirts are mostly mass-produced that’s not the case but also does that weaken their message too? If there’s one t-shirt with a political message on is that strong alone or will it have no impact and if everyone is wearing the same t-shirt does that empower the message or make it meaningless – so much food for thought? My original feeling at the exhibition was that it lessens the impact but now I think if everyone is wearing the same t-shirt with the same message then that message will make its mark.

Another aspect I found interesting was the smiley faced t-shirts, my association with them was the 90s rave scene but I a) didn’t realise that the smiley was actually from the 60s and 70s and more interestingly b) the current emoji faces are also versions of the smiley – yup that never clicked with me either, maybe I’m just really late but it does help me make more sense of why humans have taken to them so much, smileys in general have a universal appeal.

‘How does the meaning of a Superman t-shirt change when a woman wears one?’

Contemplating the Superman tee

There’s also a display of unisex t-shirts. In stores you often find male and female sizes of the same t-shirt or variations (yes the pink and blue versions) but one could just ignore that and wear a t-shirt meant for a different body, and if you do is there any specific effect? How does the meaning of a Superman t-shirt change when a woman wears one? It’s again not something I considered but in truth if you asked me I would associate a girl with wearing a Superman logo as being Supergirl but now I realise I’m completely rigid in my thinking a girl can be Superman if she wants right?

A: The Typography of T-Shirts

Featured in Susan Barnett’s photography exhibition

Separate to the main sections in a room of its own is an extraordinary exhibition by New York photographer Susan Barnett. Her work spans a decade during which time she’s photographed hundreds of people she’s spotted on the streets, from the back, and 65 of them are on display. It’s so striking to see all the same composition but each image telling such a different story. Her work touches on themes of identity and how you can form an opinion about someone just from seeing what the back of their t-shirt says. Susan was at the exhibition opening where she said: ‘Their choice of t-shirt tells us who they are, who they want us to think they are, who they aren’t – they want to be noticed, they are putting their message out there and it starts a conversation.’

‘You can form an opinion about someone just from seeing what the back of their t-shirt says.’

I’d never thought of it life this. Commonly I see people in what I think are ridiculous messages which I feel says nothing about their personality but in fact I have over-looked the fact that they have made a conscious decision to wear that t-shirt so it must mean something to them.

Susan has also made some fascinating observations about how messages can change over time, explaining that in the US in 2009 just after Obama has been elected in the States she saw a lot of people wearing hopeful messages but as time has gone on and people have started to get more angry and dissatisfied the more political their slogans become and the more swear words you’ll see.

While the main exhibition is all about the front of t-shirts, seeing just backs of them worn on people is a completely different experience because we get just a hint of the person, but we never see them. It’s a powerful piece and has really got m thinking about when I next see someone wearing a t-shirt, in particular with words or a slogan, I’m going to wonder more about what kind of person they are for choosing to wear it.

‘T-shirt: Cult Culture Subversion’ takes place at the Fashion and Textile Museum London from 9^th February to 6^th May 2018. Tickets cost £9.90 for adults and there are also a series of accompanying talks.

http://www.ftmlondon.org

 

Matching Travel Luggage

So one of the reasons we have a ‘Wish List’ section is that literally these are all things we lust over. It’s kind of like travel shopping porn, stuff that’s utterly pleasing on the eye that we just want, even though we may not need it. It’s also a good excuse to look at what’s in the shops which is one of our favourite pastimes because it’s great for inspiration.

So on that note we present to you three matching luggage sets from DotComGiftShop. We’ve always thought the name of this company is a bit naff but their stuff is always high on the want factor because it’s generally colourful and quirky. We’ve personally never  had matching luggage. But look how lovely it looks. A wash-up bag that matches your holdall and another mini make-up to boot.

Not sure, when it’s going to happen but we’re adding matching luggage to our travel bucket list. In the meantime we’re going to keep drooling over these lovelies.

Big weekend bag £19.95, Make-up bag small £6.95, washbag £12.95. www.dotcomgiftshop.com

Stitch & The City: Interview with Tapestry Artist Hannah Bass

Put down Google Maps and start appreciating the beauty of a real one. Contemporary Tapestry Artist Hannah Bass has a lifelong appreciation for maps and colour, so after a decade spent in a day job being surrounded by neutral shades, she gave into her passion and launched a tapestry kit company where she designs colourful kits based on maps of the world’s major cities. Each one is accurately drawn and can be turned into a cushion, allowing you to bring some crafty city chic into your home.
Hannah tells CraftandTravel about her how she got into this stitchuation…

What are your earliest memories of stitching?
I come from a big family and I remember stitching away with my cousins one summer. It was a way to keep us quiet and occupied. My first ever kit was of a teddy bear holding a big, bright yellow sunflower.

How did you make the move into becoming a tapestry artist?
I love colour and I love making things with my hands. I spent 10 years as an Interior Designer but found that my clients mainly opted for neutral colours, which wasn’t really me. I thought that if I started designing tapestries, I could be as colourful as I liked, just like when I did my student projects. I pondered with the idea for a while, then I just decided to take the leap, I quit my job and started designing tapestries.

What is tapestry and how does it differ to other types of embroidery?
It’s the simplest form of needlepoint. It is ‘half’ a cross-stitch. So basically a running stitch – you make just a single diagonal line. With tapestry you mostly work with chunky 4-ply wool rather than cotton or silk, so it is not as fiddly or straining on the eyes. The simplicity of the stitch is the joy to me, it’s incredibly relaxing. Just like in yoga, you turn your brain off and let the flow of the stitch take over.

Sounds perfect, how can we try it out?
I design tapestry kits based on city maps which you can buy from my online shop or my stand at craft fairs. I love to travel and I love maps because they are both a functional tool and a piece of art. They can look quite abstract as patterns so I thought they leant themselves well to tapestry. I’m from London, so for my first design, I created a tapestry map of the capital. It was a success and people asked for other cities. Initially I sold my kits at a very small local market. The first market wasn’t a great success, but I had confidence in the product, so I went back the next weekend and tried again.

How may tapestry kits do you currently have? 
25 at present. I hope to make another 10 this year. Everyone has a connection with a different city. I get a lot of requests for different cities.

How accurate are the designs in terms of geography?
Very. I couldn’t have them inaccurate, they wouldn’t be maps then. They do take quite a while to design for this reason, but it’s worth it. I love it when customers look at my tapestries and work out where they travelled and stayed from them. They get so excited if they fit on the map, as do I.

The designs are very colourful how do you choose the colour schemes? 
Each design has a theme. Some are more obvious than others, i.e. Moscow is Soviet, San Francisco is the Rainbow.The colouring is very important though. Some people won’t buy the city they want because they can’t relate to the colours and others buy a city they have no connection to just because they want to stitch those colours.

Have you visited all the cities you have made kits for and what cities are still in the pipeline that you’d like to design?
I’ve been to most of them. Not Moscow though, and oddly not to Barcelona – I must fit that in this year. I’d love to see the Gaudi buildings. This year will be Cardiff, Tokyo, Las Vegas, Melbourne, Toronto, Hong Kong, Stockholm and Copenhagen. I always choose the most requested cities.

Where do you like to do your stitching?
It’s usually one of three places; in front of the TV, in the conservatory listening to Radio 4, or in my bedroom listening to an audio book. They are a good holiday activity too!

How long would it take for someone to make one of your tapestry for cushions kits?
Well mastering the stitch is very easy anyone can do it. If I’m in rush to finish a design, it will take me five working days to complete one but the kits aren’t designed to be stitched like this – they are relaxing hobbies to pick and a put down like a book.

 What has been the highlight so far in your journey of selling your tapestry kits?
Gosh, that’s a tricky one. I don’t think there is one specific moment, rather an inward feeling of self satisfaction of coming up with a concept and having the determination to see it through to fruition, and that from my own efforts and creativity I can financially support myself. It’s not been easy, but it has definitely been worth it.

Fancy stitching a city? Check out Hannah’s website to order one and follow her on social media to see kit creation stories.

www.hannahbass.com
Facebook: hannahbasscontemporaryneedlepoint
Instagram: @hannahbassneedlepoint
Twitter: @hbneedlepoint
Pinterest: hbneedlepoint

 

Rickshaw Art of Dhaka, Bangladesh

Rickshaw artist at work

Paints for decorating rickshaws

Rickshaw details

Rickshaw workshop sewing machine

Making a rickshaw seat from coconut husks

Rickshaw art on vinyl

The beauty of cart art 

Rickshaws are what makes Dhaka, Dhaka. Bringing colour, creativity and character to the city; and more importantly a means of living to over a million people, there are an estimated 1/2 million rickshaws in Dhaka today.

Rickshaw art is considered ‘street art’ literally as it’s only viewable when you’re actually on the streets. In fact the best way to see it is to board a rickshaw yourself and be taken around the roads, alleyways and labyrinths of new and old Dhaka where a living, moving, changing, live art gallery surrounds you. Also referred to as The People’s Art, rickshaw art makes art accessible to everyone, even the poorest in society, most of whom are rickshaw-wallahs themselves. Instead of it being an art form that is housed inside public galleries, rickshaws roam freely, allowing anyone and everyone to appreciate their beauty.

 A rickshaw is essentially a three -wheeled bicycle with a carriage attached which seats people and luggage. They are cycled through the streets by a rickshaw-wallah transporting members of the public to where ever they wish to go. While the rickshaw itself is rented by the rider/driver/puller known as a rickshaw-wallah; there are many others involved in the rickshaw industry: the owners who commission them to be made, builders, constructors, artists, painters and their apprentices.

Rickshaw-wallas are male and typically under 30, most have come from rural areas to Dhaka in search of work. The physical demands of the job are extreme and the industry isn’t regulated in terms of limits and what is an acceptable distance to expect a rickshaw-wallah to ride, it’s up to their own endurance. Rickshaw journeys are the cheapest form of transport and all fares are negotiable.

Parts of a rickshaw

A rickshaw consists of several key sections. They are mainly made from recycled materials:

Handle bars: Often decorated with tassels, bells, plastic flowers, tinsel and sparkling fabrics
Frame: Decorated with painted details and patterns

Seat: These are stuffed with coconut husks and covered with painted vinyl fabrics, metal collaging and plastic appliqué from the seat pad down to the floor where passengers place their feet

Hood: Luggage like suitcases can be stored here, or additional passengers; they can be pushed up to create a shade for passengers, pushed down, or detached and are decorated with paint or appliqué; the backs are particularly elaborate

Back plate: This is the main section where the rickshaw painting is seen

The art on the cart

The themes apparent in rickshaw art vary, but they are often inspired by popular culture so it’s not uncommon to see images that depict film posters or film stars as well as iconic images of rural life, prominent people, architecture, animals, moments in history, flowers and fauna.

The owner has some influence over what designs feature on their rickshaw but usually they agree a price with the artist who will be painting it, who then has the freedom to paint it as they wish. The decoration of the rickshaw accounts for around a quarter of the total cost of buying one. Artists normally sign or mark the work so it’s possibly to identify who has painted it. There aren’t too many rules surrounding rickshaw art copyright and artists are commonly inspired by each other.

 How to see rickshaws being made

Rickshaw workshops can be found throughout Dhaka. There isn’t a specific hub; most are tucked away up back streets but it’s possible to visit one by asking around until someone (usually a rickshaw-wallah) knows of one and agrees to take you. Not every rickshaw rider knows where to find them so keep asking or enlist their help to ask around until someone can guide the way. The Lonely Planet guidebook I had on me referred to ‘Bicycle Street’ as a place to see these workshops…it may have been at some point but there wasn’t a single rickshaw workshop there when I visited and no one in the street including rickshaw-wallas knew of any there either.

Unfortunately I don’t know the exact location of the workshop I was taken to by my rickshaw-wallah but it wasn’t too far from Bicycle Street.

At the workshops its possible to buy rickshaw art direct from the artisans, at a much cheaper and fairer price than any rickshaw art you’ll find sold in shops; the money goes direct to them for a start. I purchased two metal back plates and a full size vinyl painting for £15. They have the signature PC Das on them; who I later discovered is the nephew of one of the cities most prominent painters; RK Das.

Rickshaws can be found all over Bangladesh and in other countries, but it’s Dhaka that is the hub of rickshaw art; the standard and craftmanship of which is so high that seeing them in person, is enough reason to make a trip here.

Momtaz Begum-Hossain
Images: CraftandTravel.com

Designer Zeena Shah on her new Scandinavian themed colouring in book

You get colouring in books themed with EVERYTHING now! One of the loveliest ones we’ve seen is Scandia, by Zeena Shah. Not yet convinced about colouring in? Zeena explains the appeal and shares more about her book Scandia.

Colouring-in books – you can’t escape them these days, but what’s the fuss all about and should you give it a go? CraftandTravel asked Print Designer and author Zeena Shah, one of Kirsty Allsop’s Crafts Experts and a respected name in the British crafts industry to explain a bit about them. Her new book Scandia is an adult colouring book and it’s filled with cute and creative images with a Scandinavian theme, just crying out for you to grab some crayons and have a go. The perfect summer holiday activity, whether you’re staycationing or jetting off to an exotic land, we recommend you get yourself a copy and be prepared for a new addiction.


Zeena’s book Scandia is on sale now

Why has colouring in got so popular?
Adult colouring is becoming increasingly popular and I really think this is because it’s such an accessible way to get creative. The drawings are already there waiting for you to simply add colour with your chosen tools. It couldn’t be easier a. There is also a real sense of achievement as you complete each spread.

What tools are needed for colouring in?
You could use a variety of tools for colouring in. I am a fan of the traditional colouring pencil but also love a felt tip pen. Sharpies in particular work really well and have a great finish, they also come in some brilliant colours. Watercolours, gouache and acrylic paints can also be used if you’re feeling confident and have a lovely finish.

When would a person do colouring in?
Colouring in can be done at any time, just before bedtime, after work to wind down, at a cafe or bar, as a weekend or group activity with friends. I recently took Scandia on holiday with me and it made the perfect poolside activity.

What are the benefits of colouring in – why do you love it?

I find it really therapeutic, it is a form of art therapy and for a busy mind like mine it really does help me switch off, relax and it’s fun. It’s a definite aid to de-stressing and being more mindful which with todays always ‘switched on lifestyle’ is a definite benefit.

What if you’re rubbish at colouring and just aren’t creative?
The beauty of an adult colouring in book is that you needn’t have a creative bone in your body. All you have to do is follow the lines (or go mad and go over the lines!) and fill your pages with colour. It really couldn’t be easier or any less intimidating. The illustrations are there for you and as long as you want to have a go you’ll soon fall in love with it.

Scandia by Zeena Shah is out now – and if colouring in doesn’t appeal she’s got a range of embroidery kits.
Find out more: www.zeenashah.com