Everything you ever wanted to know about t-shirts… ‘T-shirt: Cult Culture Subversion’ at the Fashion and Textile Museum

I’m so clueless about t-shirts that it wasn’t until I went on a tour of the new T-Shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion exhibition that opened this week at The Fashion & Textile Museum in London that I realised they are ‘T shaped.’ I mean how can I be a fashion fan and not know that? Seriously that bit of knowledge completely passed me by, but maybe it’s because in truth I have absolutely no interest in t–shirts.

I don’t own any other than a couple from my youth (three band t-shirts which I didn’t actually wear, I bought them as memorabilia). You won’t even find me wearing them at the gym, I opt for vests, and when I’ve ever been in a situation where I’ve been told to wear one as a uniform, I tend to revolt. That said I did once teach a how to customise a t-shirt workshop but then again, the object of the session was to transform them as much as possible from their original form. So when I heard about this exhibition I wanted to go because I realised this was my opportunity to get a better understanding of what this most common of, casual garment is all about. And while I have in no way converted, I have a new found respect for the humble tee…

Andy Warhol t-shirts

Gilbert & George art-shirt

One of the sections in the main exhibition room

The exhibition ends on a ‘plain white t-shirt’ (I don’t even own one of them) but before you get there, there’s another 100 tees to look through spanning 50 years, sourced from the archives of artists, fans and collectors. It’s not a definitive history (t-shirt shaped garments are thought to be one of the earliest ‘fashioned’ items of clothing worn in as early as the 5^th century – now there’s a fashion fact for you.) But what you will find is 11 distinct sections considered ‘milestones’ in t-shirt evolution.

‘The earliest t-shirt shaped garments can be traced back to the 5th century’

These include techniques such as screen-printing which opened up the ability to make them on bigger scales, band t-shirts which although are now considered a fan item actually originated as the uniform of the roadies and crew and political tees – and there’s me thinking they all came under the heading ‘slogan tees’, there’s so much more to them than that. The message you wear can broadcast a social, political or even musical message and if you truly want to broadcast with todays tech you can, there’s an LED t-shirt on display which can even display live Tweets.

One of the things that is fascinating that I didn’t appreciate before, is that t-shirts are universal because of their price point, you can pick one up for a few pounds, from an ordinary store or you can spend £700 on a designer one (why I’m not sure but it happens!)

Another aspect I found of interest is the ‘power of the t-shirt’ and this dynamic explains one of the reasons I’m not a fan. I like to look ‘unique’ different, knowing it’s highly unlikely I will cross paths with someone wearing the same as me, but because t-shirts are mostly mass-produced that’s not the case but also does that weaken their message too? If there’s one t-shirt with a political message on is that strong alone or will it have no impact and if everyone is wearing the same t-shirt does that empower the message or make it meaningless – so much food for thought? My original feeling at the exhibition was that it lessens the impact but now I think if everyone is wearing the same t-shirt with the same message then that message will make its mark.

Another aspect I found interesting was the smiley faced t-shirts, my association with them was the 90s rave scene but I a) didn’t realise that the smiley was actually from the 60s and 70s and more interestingly b) the current emoji faces are also versions of the smiley – yup that never clicked with me either, maybe I’m just really late but it does help me make more sense of why humans have taken to them so much, smileys in general have a universal appeal.

‘How does the meaning of a Superman t-shirt change when a woman wears one?’

Contemplating the Superman tee

There’s also a display of unisex t-shirts. In stores you often find male and female sizes of the same t-shirt or variations (yes the pink and blue versions) but one could just ignore that and wear a t-shirt meant for a different body, and if you do is there any specific effect? How does the meaning of a Superman t-shirt change when a woman wears one? It’s again not something I considered but in truth if you asked me I would associate a girl with wearing a Superman logo as being Supergirl but now I realise I’m completely rigid in my thinking a girl can be Superman if she wants right?

A: The Typography of T-Shirts

Featured in Susan Barnett’s photography exhibition

Separate to the main sections in a room of its own is an extraordinary exhibition by New York photographer Susan Barnett. Her work spans a decade during which time she’s photographed hundreds of people she’s spotted on the streets, from the back, and 65 of them are on display. It’s so striking to see all the same composition but each image telling such a different story. Her work touches on themes of identity and how you can form an opinion about someone just from seeing what the back of their t-shirt says. Susan was at the exhibition opening where she said: ‘Their choice of t-shirt tells us who they are, who they want us to think they are, who they aren’t – they want to be noticed, they are putting their message out there and it starts a conversation.’

‘You can form an opinion about someone just from seeing what the back of their t-shirt says.’

I’d never thought of it life this. Commonly I see people in what I think are ridiculous messages which I feel says nothing about their personality but in fact I have over-looked the fact that they have made a conscious decision to wear that t-shirt so it must mean something to them.

Susan has also made some fascinating observations about how messages can change over time, explaining that in the US in 2009 just after Obama has been elected in the States she saw a lot of people wearing hopeful messages but as time has gone on and people have started to get more angry and dissatisfied the more political their slogans become and the more swear words you’ll see.

While the main exhibition is all about the front of t-shirts, seeing just backs of them worn on people is a completely different experience because we get just a hint of the person, but we never see them. It’s a powerful piece and has really got m thinking about when I next see someone wearing a t-shirt, in particular with words or a slogan, I’m going to wonder more about what kind of person they are for choosing to wear it.

‘T-shirt: Cult Culture Subversion’ takes place at the Fashion and Textile Museum London from 9^th February to 6^th May 2018. Tickets cost £9.90 for adults and there are also a series of accompanying talks.

http://www.ftmlondon.org

 

Daytripping in Winter: Dreamland Margate ticks the boxes

British summer time and seasides make for the perfect daytrip, but does it still work as a December activity?

Since it opened back in May this year following a £25 million investment, the oldest surviving amusement part in the UK, Dreamland Margate has become one of the most Instagrammable destinations for colour lovers. It seems to always be on my feed, colour-hunters, meet-up groups, crafters, bloggers, attending in their hoards to get selfies in front of the rainbow ‘Born Slippy’ slides and the retro themed roller disco. To say I’ve been suffering FOMO would be an understatement, I so wanted to visit but I never quite made it before it closed down for the summer season. Booo!

But then I heard it was opening back up for Christmas with a Frosted Fairground so I hotfooted it down to the Kent coast to see what all the fuss is about. Yes it’s winter. Yes it’s cold, but if you layer up (I had my thermals under all my normal clothes) there is much fun to be had.

My 5 reasons why you should visit Dreamland Margate in winter

Short days
Margate is highly Instagrammable during the day but a fairground really comes to life in the dark and in winter it’s dark by 4pm so the fairground lights come on quicker (plus there are extra Xmas ones too.) I call that a Win. It’s also really fun to be able to go on the rides in the daytime and at night to compare, especially the legendary Scenic Railway – the oldest rollercoaster in the UK which no matter how scared you think you’ll be, you have to go on.

Ice skating
Yes, you can go to the Roller Disco in all seasons but let’s face it, skating off- season isn’t the same. It’s best done in December. Can’t skate? Neither can I. Thankfully I found a guide to help me over the course: a plastic penguin!

Banish grey skies
Going to Dreamland on a grey day is no bad thing because there’s so much colour in the rides, signage, details that it eases the depressive nature of bleak winter days.

Good vibes
While other places you visit during this time of year (shopping centres, bars, restaurants) are all playing the same old Christmas pop CDs, Margate maintains its vintage vibes by playing golden oldies rather than chart music Xmas mash-ups. There’s also live DJs and a huge stage giving it a fun festival feel. Infact it’s good vibes all round. Compact in size, friendly staff dotted around the place, rides for all levels of bravery and yummy food carts, all of which create a perfect daytrip experience.

Xmas Shopping
Swap the high-street for the boutique shops of Margate and pick up something a little more interesting. Dreamland is just five minutes walk from Margate train station, five minutes walk to the beach and seafront and five minute walk to the old town shops. A destination couldn’t be better designed. And if you are down for Dreamland, Margate has much to explore. The Turner Contemporary Margate Art Gallery is free to visit and has a quirky gift shop which is also a fab place to shop, as is the colourful and curious A Little Bit Margate.

See, daytripping is not just for summertime. And if you’re one of those folks that wants to visit Margate but can’t hack the crowds it attracts on sunny days, winter is the perfect time to experience it.

Dreamland Margate is open every day from December 16^th until 3^rd January. (Closed Christmas Day). It’s also open weekend of 9/10^th December.

Entrance is free rides and skating are paid for separately.
Tickets available from dreamland.co.uk/events

 

 

Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism and Pussy Riot at Saatchi Gallery, London. Exhibition preview

You’ll either walk out of Art Riot fuelled with passion ready to make your own artistic political statement, or you’ll leave feeling inadequate that you’ve never been brave enough to truly stand up for what is right. I felt the latter. See the thing is, the ideas, concepts, creativity and practical action carried out by the three major artists and their peers who are taking part in the new Saatchi Gallery exhibition ‘Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism’ are so impressive, it’s mind-blowing – literally.

Their sheer passion and commitment to make a stand against politics, authority, oppressors, power, laws and rules makes you feel in awe of their wisdom. You on the other hand are possibly thinking about doing something ‘radical’ but will so easily find ways of talking yourself out of it, which is what makes these artists such important people.

Educational and thought-provoking, the exhibition is dedicated to 25 years of Russian Art Protest, so it isn’t something you’ll typically come across. It’s a rare experience to enter into such a specific world. All the installations on display make perfect sense when you consider their intentions, but they are hard to digest because they are so different to the realities most of us witness on a typical day.

Pussy Riot performing ‘Mother of God, Drive Putin Away’

Pussy Riot, are likely to be the most recognisable of the artists involved after the international media coverage the feminist punk rock band received after two of their members were jailed for two years after the group performed at a cathedral. Their story is documented in the film ‘Pussy Riot: A Punk Prayer’ and now it’s become even more vivid with ‘Inside Pussy Riot’, a programme of live immersive performance which accompanies the exhibition. Not much has been revealed about the experience, I didn’t get to see it when I visited, but it’s supposed to make you feel as though you are inside a Russian prison. Which judging by banners on display in the exhibition is not a positive experience.

Portrait of Pussy Riot’s Nadezhda Tolokonnikova

Vibrant and colourful (just like their signature balaclavas) the work on display is bold and beautiful and features huge portraits, statues and even the women turned into Russian dolls.

Maria, one of the two members of Pussy Riot who was jailed, was in attendance at the preview.

Maria Alyokhina, Pussy Riot

Elsewhere there’s a gallery dedicated to Oleg Kulik, who was also at the preview I attended.

Oleg Kulik at London preview of Art Riot

Oleg is considered one of the most controversial artists in Russia and though he does sculptures and illustrations, it’s live performance art in which he really excels in pushing boundaries. Once of his most iconic works is where he became a man-dog for five years. During this time he behaved like a dog in public crawling around naked, barking and even living as a dog in a cage. The exhibition showcases extraordinary footage of him being patted on the head by a police officer and even having other dogs bark at him. It sounds comedic yet it isn’t.

Artist: Pyotr Pavlensky and his living art ‘Seam’

Another gallery is dedicated to Pyotr Pavlensky who takes his art to the extreme of extreme; from sewing his mouth shut to rolling naked in barbed wire through to his most terrifying works, ‘Threat’ where he set alight the HQ of the Russian Security Services while inviting the media to observe and play a role in the ‘artistic performance.’ His says: ‘My aim is to suck the authorities into my art and deprive them at least temporarily, of the ability to control event.’ WOW. That is some serious thought out plan and with precision he has stayed true to his intentions. This section of the exhibition is scarily dark and atmospheric and features audio accounts of conversations he’s had with different authorities, again building them into his art.

AES+F’s installation The Islamic Project

Other sections include a room filled with what seems like beautiful quilts but are in fact a visualisation of Western fears about Islam. Displayed to feel like a Bedouin tent it’s filled with handmade carpets where meditation is encouraged. There’s plenty more too but it’s not my intention to give it all way. Art Riot features anecdotes and stories that you may not hear about, may not affect your day-to-day life but have universal importance. It opened my eyes to a side of art I realised I knew nothing about so I am happy I visited.

Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism runs 16 Nov – 31 December 2017
Inside Pussy Riot (immersive theatre experience) runs until 24 December 2017

Images by CraftandTravel and Saatchi Gallery PR

www.saatchigallery.com

A cool riverside café in Barking that even Instagrammers haven’t discovered yet…

There’s nothing quite like ‘discovering’ a new secret part of London that no one, not even Instagrammers are raving about. But then how far do all these famous London travel bloggers really go? You’ll see them at swanky events in central London and attending new openings, but what about exploring the ends of the line, in the outer zones?

London is a mega city. There’s so much to see, do and explore. I’m working my way through the tube stops but there’s still so many more to go. I’ve previously visited the ‘extreme East’ borough of Barking & Dagenham to attend their annual Folk Music festival held in the beautiful grounds of the derelict Abbey Ruins but it wasn’t until this weekend that I found out the area also has waterside views of the River Roding. In fact Barking doesn’t just have picturesque views, it has its own creative artist hub of art studies within Ice House Quarter where you’ll find the Ice House Court art studios by Bow Arts and next door, The Malthouse Building Creative Booths. Amongst these buildings you’ll find a hive of vibrant activities from the colorful studios of felt and textile artist Susanna Wallis to the sculpture artists that have huge open spaces in which to construct their handiworks.

In amongst it all is The Boathouse Café. Head up a flight of stairs to the side of Malthouse (which incidently currently has artist studio space available) and you’ll find the quirky bar and café that is now Barking’s hippest hangout. The walls are filled with colourful canvas art, there’s paper pompoms hanging in the windows, vases filled with fresh blooms decorate all the tables, the bar is so beautiful it looks more like a library and on it sits the coolest lamp you’ll find in a London café: an upcycled diver’s mask.

A 10-15 minute walk from Barking station, this café is well worth the trek for its charm, warmth and very friendly atmosphere. Seats are available indoors and alfresco and if you’re lucky enough to visit on an Open Studios day you can also take a peak inside and see the latest works from some very talented East London creatives.

Barking Bites:
Other things to see and to while you’re in Barking

Get scared at Eastbury Manor, inside this manor house turned museum and event space they often host murder mystery evenings and community crafting events such as children’s crafts for Diwali.

Valence House Museum, another unexpected architectural wonder in Barking is this quaint museum which also has events and a herb garden.

 

If you go down to Regent’s Park today…a peek at Frieze Sculpture 2017

Let’s start with the weather. I’m British after all! But my oh my….how glorious the summer of 2017 has been so far. We’ve had more warm summer evenings in the last few weeks than we get in some entire years and it has been so, so dreamy. I won’t lie I have been ditching work in favour of lazing in the park a lot of late and though my To Do list is spiralling out of control, I’m feeling thoroughly content from all the hours spent simply lazing on a picnic rug and getting to know my neighbourhood dogs. I’m lucky because there’s a huge public park close to where I live but when I get the change I also adore exploring London’s many other green spaces and you can’t beat London’s Royal Parks.

Regent’s Park is a favourite. Many years ago I went on a Bat Walk there. It has all the elements a great park should have from rivers and boating to pristine flower beds and secret spaces as well as outdoor theatre and the iconic Regent’s Park Mosque. And if you pop down between now and October 8th you’ll be to wander along giant pieces of art.

Last week saw the opening of the very first alfresco summer Frieze Sculpture exhibition where for free you can immerse yourself in the work of 25 contemporary artists.

Here’s a list of the works:

The display is  condensed into one area of the park so you don’t need to worry about getting lost in the park’s vastness but it’s a good excuse to go to the park if you’ve not been in the while. I’m a massive supporter of free public art and I love the fact you can get really close and personal with these pieces, even touch them if you so wish without fear of getting told off. They are simply there in the park to be admired.

Hooray for art that’s accessible. I’d love to see more events like this please!

(Oh and once you’ve had your fill of art I recommend wandering down to the water the views – especially at sunset are beautiful.)

The World of Anna Sui – In Conversation with Anna

I nearly exploded from excitement the day I heard there was going to be an Anna Sui exhibition at The Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Embodying everything fashion should be, I love how Anna’s work is deeply rooted in counter-cultures and scenes like punk rock and pop art. Anna has taken alternative lifestyles and celebrated them on international catwalks not just for one season when they might be ‘on trend’, but always: these styles and influences are intrinsic to all her work, whatever the year or decade, she’s stayed true to herself and the Anna Sui brand.

Seeing Anna’s work on the pages of a magazine or online is the closest I had previously got to seeing her work, but now with the opening of The World of Anna Sui, the biggest retrospective there’s ever been of the New York Designer, everyone can experience her cool and quirky designs in the flesh. There are 125 items on display at the new exhibition at The Fashion and Textile Museum, with pieces from her first fashion show in 1991 right up until her 2017 collection; it’s the ultimate exhibition of modern fashion.

The exhibition is thematically arranged showing Anna’s different archetypes such as The RockStar, The School Girl, The Punk Grunge (above) and The Nomad. Within each collection you can get up close with her gorgeous designs, admiring the cuts, textures and colourful printed fabrics. The exhibition is one two levels, a main room which is filled with mannequins and then an upper level where you can see the accessories, cosmetics ranges and even the mood boards which Anna creates to help her design her collections.

The main room resembles what I would love my own walk-in wardrobe to be. I wanted to wear every outfit and I’m sure they would all look great on me too!! Instead however I took home my own piece of Anna Sui DIY fashion mentality by getting an iron-on patch from the museum’s shop where there are also some other cool Anna memorabilia, I’m going to save for the notebook and go back to get it before the exhibition closes!

Bring money for The Fashion and Textile Museum shop!

In the opening days of The World of Anna Sui, Anna was there too (on the 25^th for a main launch and on the 26^th where she did a public book signing of the book that accompanies the exhibition.)

Hearing first hand from Anna at the launch about her experiences and influences was rather special so I decided to share her ‘In Conversation With’ which she did in front of an audience to coincide with the launch of her new perfume Fantasia. I was thrilled that she also answered one of my questions in the Q&A…

Anna being interviewed at the launch

How did you feel when you walked in today and saw your life’s work unfold in front of you?
I really feel that this has been one of the biggest thrills of my career. As a Designer we’re always looking forward, thinking about deadlines, trying to make things happen on time for a show, a launch, ensure there are fabric deliveries, that you never tend to look back. One of the most exciting things is actually seeing these outfits together again because I haven’t seen them since the fashion shows 20 years ago or however long ago, so it’s kind of like seeing all my different babies.

What was it like to know that your clothes were being worn by celebrities?

So exciting and it gave me the confidence to go on because when Madonna was wearing my dress I hadn’t even thought about doing my own fashion show. But then I thought hang on, here’ someone who could have worn anything and she was wearing my design. So when we went back to New York, I started on my own show as I thought if Madonna likes it than other people will too.

How did you get into being a Fashion Designer?

At my aunt and uncle’s wedding I was the flower girl and I was so taken by New York City and the glamour of my aunts all dressed up for the wedding that when I got back to Michigan I said to my parents I wanted to design. At the back of my babysitter’s Seventeen magazine there was an advert for registering at Parson’s School of Design in New York so I wrote to Parsons got the registration catalogue and applied. That’s why my saying is live your dreams because a dream can really take you further than anything.

Were you making clothes at this point?
My mum did sewing at home so I would take the scraps and make doll clothes for my cousins and I would change their Barbie outfits into things I had created, much to their own trauma and then eventually I took sewing classes and learned how to sew myself. I started taking patterns and taking the sleeves and putting them with the bodice of another pattern. I kind of knew I had to understand the structure of clothing and know how to sew, not that I was ever a great craftsman, but I started making all my own clothes so that I had lots of outfits to wear.

You have a myriad of inspirations where does your love for colour and pattern come from?

I think the fact my parents were so modern. They were both educated in France but they both came from China. So they were educated in France met, married and then my father went to university in Michigan, so I think that was quite adventurous for both of them and it made the world seem like a smaller place for me because I always heard them talking about different cities they had visited in Europe. I think it helped when I was offered freelance jobs like working in Italy or working in Japan, I was never afraid to do it because I thought well my parents went from China to France to the United States  so gave me that gift of having a global spirit. I think that it also coincided with the world becoming globalised and that helped me think about it as one whole unit, rather than places being so far away.

Are there standout pieces we should look for out for in the exhibition?
When you first walk into exhibition on the left there’s the dress from my Marie Antoinette inspired collection. So this is an example of my thought process. I had gone to Paris and seen my friend Sofia Coppola filming the ballroom scene of Marie Antoinette and I thought ok I’m going to use this inspiration for the collection but then I went on vacation with two of my nephews and we went to Turkey and we went to a palace and there I saw the harem and I thought to myself oh my god, this is the same period as Marie Antoinette so I’m going to incorporate some of what I’m experiencing on this trip. We had also gone to see a museum display of Barbarossa the pirate so I thought ok pirates and Marie Antoinette why not? But I also had my favourite band the New York Dolls poster on the wall and there was a dress code back in that day – you could wear black, white, red, stripes, roses and you can see all of that in that dress: it’s all those things mixed together and some how it comes out an Anna Sui thing.

Also the inspiration boards, they tell the design team and the people I work with what the collection is going to be about. All the boards are grouped by colour and the fabric swatches below reflect that colour. I think that one of the craziest was a collection inspired by punk rock but then I saw a catalogue by Madeleine Castaing and they were auctioning off her possession and in the catalogue you can see all the personal furniture they collected which was all Napoleon the third. She loved blue and aqua and that became the colour palette for the collection while the designs and prints we chose really reflect Madeleine Castaing’s style but then the style itself has all those punk elements thrown in: fishnets, zippers, studs, leather, and there’s just a total mixture but if you look at the garments it just works.

Where do the designs for your cosmetics range come from?

My lifestyle, the style of how I decorate and how I dress is really incorporated into my work and when we started designing the packaging for the cosmetics I was wearing these rings and we decided ok all packaging has to reflect these rings which had roses carved from black lacquer. It was also what I put into my first store I ended up painting it black lacquer. One of the most important aspects of my job is I have to make my product as exciting as my fashion. I think not everyone has the lifestyle or budget or accessibility to buy an Anna Sui dress but I want them to have the same thrill the same tingle when they have a tube of lipstick or a nail polish so that’s why I make boxes that you’re not even ever going to throw away because you have to save them. The container itself too has to be so evocative of my world and then of course the best quality products and the most beautiful interesting textures and colours.

How did you create your own signature make-up look?
Once I started being able to wear make-up I experimented and had colours on my face, glitter, whatever, but then I fell into this black eyeliner and red lipstick look and I’ve stuck with it and that was the first product we developed in the cosmetics line, my signature red no. 400 lipstick and to this day I wear it every day.

Where does fragrance fit into this fantastical universe for you?

Anna’s new fragrance Fantasia

Fragrance is another accessory it really completes a look, evokes the mood and as a child I remember my mum wearing Chanel no. 5 and every time I smell that fragrance I remember her all dressed up and going out with my dad. I think that it becomes almost your second signature when you recognise a scent that someone wears you always think about that person so I was so excited when I got approached to do a fragrance collection and I wanted it to be my signature. You’ll notice fragrances have been named  after me Sui Love, Sui Dream and Dolly Girl after the mannequin heads that we decorate the store with.

There’s a British mood to your work but there’s no British in you, do you feel British?
Ever since I saw The Beatles and Rolling Stones I dreamed about London even though it seemed like such a far away place. Whatever glimpses I got these inspired me. I came to London first in the punk days I knew a lot of the bands went to see a lot of shows, went to see Vivienne Westwood’s collection, every chance I got I came to London and I think you see a lot of that inspiration in my work.

How has international travel influenced your work?

Well I think I’m kind of a gypsy and like gypsies themselves, they travelled and picked up culture along the way and incorporated it into their dress, their traditions, their lifestyle and I think everywhere I go, the first thing I want to see is a flea market and I go to the museums there and then I also go shopping and see what the stuff is there that I haven’t seen before, so all of that really inspires me – there’s nothing better than to discover something I knew nothing about.

What would you like people to understand from seeing this exhibition?
If you want to be a Fashion Designer, you have to establish your identity and you have to stick with that identify. You can see throughout the exhibition book where and how I decorated my apartment all became icons of my brand;the butterflies, the roses, the black and purple and as we developed the licensed products each off these have that same identity so I think that it’s important for fashion designers to come up with their own icons and identity too.

I also want people to know there’s a team behind the brand, the fragrance, the cosmetics, the shows, all the people involved are essential in making a total look, I couldn’t have done it all myself, I want people to realise it’s not just a name, but a team.

At the end of the In Conversation With I had a chance to speak to Anna briefly she said she really liked my colours and my glitter lips so I guess it’s apt out photo came out pink!

The World of Anna Sui
26^th May – 1 October 2017
The Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3XF
www.ftmlondon.org/exhibitions

The Truth About London Craft Week

I had my reservations about London Craft Week which I aired  on my personal Twitter account a few days before it got under way. I had a lot of interactions too from other appreciators of craft, professional and hobbycrafters, some who shared my concerns and others whose concerns were even stronger than mine.

There’s no doubt that I am supporter of crafts…I wouldn’t have called this blog CraftandTravel  if it wasn’t something I’m passionate about but it’s because of this passion that I feel so protective and sensitive about the subject.

What are crafts? How do you distinguish between art and craft, and craft that is amateur and professional? Does one have more value than the other? This is a topic I have been faced with many times and it’s one I’ve previously written about too, but the answer is not clear-cut. The truth is if one was to look at ‘crafts’ as a discipline, it is one that’s divided. At one end it’s an extremely high-end product that requires incredible skills which results in the finished product having a high value. The average person will never be able to afford it, just like they can’t afford work by major artists and they will never afford to buy anything that appears on the runways of London and other fashion weeks. In that respect there is a whole world of crafts that is incredibly elitist and for the large part that’s what London Craft Week represents.

For me as a crafts lover it’s a chance to experience this side of crafts, as on an ordinary day I can’t walk into a luxury craft store they probably wouldn’t even let me in! Yet at the same time, I worry that in London there is a huge crafts community which sit outside the remit of London Craft Week.

Those that sell their handmade wares on websites like Etsy, have stalls at craft markets, write craft blogs, love making handmade gifts….they too are Crafters but they aren’t represented in the London Craft Week programme so that’s my dilemma: why can’t both of these creative worlds be united under this umbrella event?

I went to London Craft Week with an open mind and chose to focus on the free events which is what you’ll get a taste of in the video above  but I also went to a couple of the paid ones to get an idea of how they differed. Both were at opposite ends of the scale.

Inside The Charlotte Street Hotel

For the first event I went along to The Charlotte Street Hotel to hear Interior Designer Kit Kemp speak. Earlier this year I stayed at the Haymarket Hotel and loved the décor so much I immediately became incredibly fond of Kit’s work so the chance to hear her speak at an event was one I couldn’t miss. 90% of those attending were women on their own which fascinated me. They all had an interest and eye for colour, pattern and design and I got speaking to several, it was a wonderful evening.

The second of the paid events I chose to attend was a discussion entitled ‘Can Crafts Make Britain Great Again?,’ held inside a high-end crafts store. I’ve never felt more out of place. Here’s me, my colourful positive craft living self at a craft event at London Craft Week, I should have felt in my element – when in fact I’ve never felt more like an outsider. I felt like how it may feel for a common working class student to turn up to Oxford University in its earliest days – you’d feel so different to anyone else and inadequate.

There was a panel led discussion at the end of which I asked a question which the chair chose not to answer. I felt deflated and unimportant and left with a tear in my eye realising that I’d learnt about a new side of an industry which I considered to me by own… that it’s not actually what I think it is.

Craft is an industry that is divided and very much so by class, at least in the UK. In a way this reinforces my reasons for why I write this blog it’s beyond my home country – it’s about crafts on a global scale and in particular the communities who make handmade possible. So though I’m currently feeling a bit disheartened about crafts in the UK right now, I’m excited as ever about the opportunities there are to celebrate the creativity of crafts, by professionals and amateurs around the world and on my journey I’ll be keeping an eye out for whether and how this ‘divide’ exists elsewhere.

Did you attend London Craft Week? What are your thoughts on it?

Hotel review: Why I want to live inside Haymarket Hotel

Is Haymarket Hotel an art gallery or a hotel? I’m going with both. A colourful, creative, oasis of sheer delight, Haymarket Hotel (run by the Firmdale group) takes sleeping away from home to a whole knew level. Comfy? Yes Welcoming? 100%. Clean? Absolutely. Spacious? Totally? Good food? Hands down. The tick box elements are easy to complete, but where this London retreat gets its Wow Factor and personality is in the design and décor. We’re not talking ‘finer details’ either. Character is in the every essence of every  decision made, whether that’s with centering the Brumus Restaurant around a striking, colourful painting of an African woman with her sparkly shoe collection, the fish print toilets in reception, with a felt elephant parade on the walls, or in the giant lamps that stand at the foot of the magical, sunset themed indoor swimming pool, where it actually feels like you are wadding into another world.

(Haymarket Hotel library)

If you’re after somewhere to hang out, to take a break from the craziness of Piccadilly Circus, in Central London, the public conservatory allows visitors to be enveloped by the beauty of this visionary space…but if you’re staying here overnight the treat really begins.
There’s a chic art lounge library filled with handcrafted furniture and furnishings, and of course, the chance to experience your own slice of creative heaven inside one of the boutique hotel’s bedrooms or suites…where basically I nearly died from delight.

Haymarket Hotel: One Bedroom Suffolk Suite
There are three of these suites within Haymarket as well as a number of two bedroom suites but what struck me on entering is how on earth they managed to get me a room that so immaculately matches my current hair shade?
What are the chances of finding a bedroom in shades of pink, blue and white? That was my initial shock. After that I was overjoyed by stumbling into a beautiful living room filled with colour.From the mannequin in the corner through to the framed fabric wall hanging and rose print cushions: this suite was Everything. The vision of Interior Designer Kit Kemp MBE (imagine going to her house for tea?), the Co-Owner and Design Director of Firmdale Hotels, has a book called Every Room Tells A Story, where shares her inspiration behind designing the hotel rooms, which include working with artisans and crafts people from all over the world, making every room completely different.

Yes. Firmdale Hotels are the ultimate places to stay for fans of Craft and Travel.
That pool!

One of the most thoughtful touches in the room was a shelf of records and a record player to play them on, so of course I did just that before heading down for a dip in the pool, which temporarily, while the hotel’s new bar is being fitted, has a poolside cocktail bar adding to the ambience. I also had a peek inside the hotel’s meeting rooms which are in keeping with the hotel’s delightful décor.

Breakfast buffet selection with the best granola ever

Kedgeree with a delicious spicy sauce & avocado on the side

Friendly staff and yummy food are part of the experience here, the hottest shower I’ve ever had and comfy bedding that cocoons you into a perfect’s night sleep are luxuries that enhance your stay even more,  even when it feels like it can’t be enhanced anymore.

Fun, fabulous, fashionable…I can’t think of a more perfect place: now when can I move in?

All the Haymarket Hotels are gorgeous…enjoy the pics online before booking a stay. www.firmdalehotels.com Get more of a taste in this video interview with Kit Kemp.

Momtaz Begum-Hossain
Images: CraftandTravel.com

 

 

 

 

Utopian Design – A look back at the inaugural London Design Biennale

(Chakra View, India, image: Ed Reeve)

Back in September Somerset House became a homage to contemporary design from 37 countries in a new annual exhibition called the London Design Biennale. The theme was Utopia By Design and each country was asked to depict what Utopia means to them.

(Installation by Albania)

Consisting of installations, artworks, protypes and experiences, visitors where able to interact with world-leading architects, designers, scientists, writers and artists.

I first came across the buzz of the event on social media. The exhibition, although lasted three weeks was part of London Design Week. This event stood out because of the ‘international appeal.’ The chance to visit 37 countries in one exhibition was too exciting an experience not to embark on, so I popped along on the last weekend to have a look at what it was all about.

Split across different, floors, wings and even outside the venue, it was a mammoth exhibition and a day (as I had also heard on the grapevine) wasn’t enough, but I took in as much as I could, and as well as discovering the fascinating backgrounds to each piece, I also took the opportunity to pose in the exhibitions -well, the backdrops were made for Instagramming!

From roaring digital fireplaces (Germany) to huge animal swing chairs (South Africa) and a giant gumball machine dispensing water (Saudi Arabia), there was plenty of imagery and objects to spark the imagination, and installations so striking they were instantly memorable.

I think I managed to get around to see all of them. Here were my favourites…

PAKISTAN
An installation entitled Daalaan, this was a huge room filled with beautifully printed textile hanging and wooden stools that spun round; sitting on them was a perfect break to all the walking around the exhibition entailed. Created by Karachi based Coalesce Design Studio, their interpretation was that Utopia is ‘a place where strangers become friends.’ Consisting of architecture, design, furniture and fabric screen prints made from henna dyes, it had a relaxing and welcoming feel and it was a pleasure to relax there, (as much as one can at a busy public exhibition!), and take it all in.

INDONESIA
With its sci-fi spaceship theme, this was one of the most fun exhibits. The literature accompanying the exhibition was fascinating and told of an agreement assigned by 29 countries in 1955 to create a satellite. It consisted of a floating satellite surrounded by interesting dome like structures.

TURKEY
A ‘wish machine’ – with a name like that, this was already going to be one of my favourites! A cultural tradition deeply rooted in the ancient Anatolian faith and found in ancient Greek, Kabala and Persian beliefs, Wish Machines operates on a simple mechanism that involves affixing a note or a memento to a branch of a tree as an act of hope.

SPAIN

The Spanish offering consisted of a tube you walk through with distorted mirrors at the end that symbolised a ‘utopic next century city’, a habitat where technology, life standards and health coexist, even when natural resources are scarce.
It’s a scary thought that this is an actual reality: we will have to face such times.

AUSTRIA
I get over excited whenever I see lights so this kinetic light installation had instant appeal. The theory on the other hand of why it lit up was one of the more complicated of the entire exhibition.
I’m not going to try to explain it because in truth it went ovr my head in a too-academic-for-a-public-exhibition-kind-of-way, but aesthetically speaking I had much appreciation for it.

LEBANON
A real-life miniature city was set up for this alfresco exhibition where artist Annabel Karim Kasser recreated a bustling street scene from Beirut including a wet shave bar, falafel hut and juice bar. Attention to detail was everything and the falafel, which was on sale, tasted great!

INDIA

(Image: Bradley Barnes)

The India space Chakra View was one of the major commissions and took up an entire wing. Weaving together India’s cultural heritage it used traditional textiles and ancient mythology, with modern design innovations to portray a sense of modern India. Colourful creative and a complete experience, stepping into the main space was a joy from every angle it was viewed from.

CraftandTravel’s Editor posing by the installation

Alongside the exhibition there was a number of talks at The London Design Biennale and I attended one chaired by Priya Paul, Chairperson of The Park Hotels in India. I was keen to go because I stayed at their Kolkata hotel in 2014 and loved every minute of my stay. Cool design was present in every aspect of the hotel and it remains one of the most memorable places I’ve ever stayed in. Priya chaired a discussion about contemporary design in India and in particular, the role Indian crafters and artisans play in it.

Priya is an avid supporter of art and crafts and invited respected figures from the Indian design world to give their thoughts on the subject, including Rajshree Pathy, Founder of India Design Forum who created the colourful Chakra View installation.

A common theme in their discussion was around how businesses (such as hotels) can incorporate the work of artisans and crafters to help preserve their heritage which I thought was a positive approach. Certainly design-led hotels, rather than chains which look the same, can have unique, one, off and hand-crafted pieces as part of their décor, though of course it was be amazing if bigger chains could also see the value it would have.

The discussion began with some observations by Author Sunil Khilnani who explained that design has been important in India for 60 years – in 1958 the India Report was the blueprint for the national institute of design who were committed to contemporary design being part of India’s heritage.

He commented how Gandhi was an anti-industrialist because he didn’t like how mass produced goods could mean the loss of handicrafts. Bringing the conversation up-to-date,  Researcher Alice Ciccolini described her own experiences of the jewellery industry where the children of mastercrafters do not want to work in the industry, so work is being done to encourage them to see the benefits.

One issue is that middle-class wealthy Indians are going to art school and becoming artists but the lower paid artisans and crafters who are poor, cannot see the value in what they are doing, so this gap between how art and craft is perceived needs to be changed.

Practicality wise the mobile phone has been beneficial to crafts people as they can now cut out the middle-man and take orders directly. Priya also referenced the resurgence there has been in the weaving industry and how wealthy Indians appreciate owning hand crafted pieces as a form of patronage.

A fascinating conversation which informed my visit to the exhibition, it made me realise how important the ‘talks’ that are programmed alongside exhibitions are; I’ll certainly be looking at attending more of them for future exhibitions I visit.

For more information about the exhibition visit www.londondesignbiennale.com

Momtaz Begum-Hossain, CraftandTravel.com